Chocolate is back

What would you do to create the perfect product?  How about take 5 flights, canoe for 5 hours through the Amazon, and then trek 15 kilometers through the Bolivian jungle?  That is what it takes just to get the raw cacao for Oialla chocolate.  And we haven’t even started to discuss production yet.  And Rasmus Bo Bojesen, the owner of Oialla and chocolatier, will not settle for less.

This all started a few years ago when Rasmus’ wife asked him one morning why

they didn’t make organic chocolate.  This question didn’t come out of the blue.  Rasmus is a world-renowned chef and restaurateur who owns Axelborg and The Royal Danish Opera Restaurant.  (He has started several other restaurants throughout Denmark.)  His obsession with chocolate started over thirty years ago while working as a chef at Michelin star restaurants and as an apprentice to Lyon master-chocolatier Bernachon. Since then he has studied chocolate.  When I write studied, I mean that the man should have a doctorate in cacao if there were such a thing.  In addition to making and selling chocolate and delicacies in his restaurants and shops over the years, he started Bojesen Chocolate, which produced raw chocolate, in 2006.  And then he wrote a cookbook, “A Sense for Chocolate” that was published in 2009 (for which he won the Gourmand Best Chocolate Book in the World Award in 2012).  When he talks about chocolate, he beams as though nothing else in the world matters. 

So when his wife asked about making organic chocolate, Rasmus’ response was “Three reasons. Taste. Taste. And Taste.”  At that time organic cacao beans had a reputation for poor quality.  The supply of organic cacao was extremely limited and not consistent. But the couple was up for the challenge.  They talked with friends and colleagues, including an agriculture professor nearby that suggested that the cacao they were searching for may exist in the wild and only in the jungles of Bolivia.  After a lot of research, a small protected area was located that had virtually untouched cacao trees around Baures in the Beni region of Bolivia.  And they weren’t exporting the beans. 

This is where the 5 flights, 5 hours canoeing, and 15 km hike come in.  There was no assurance that Bolivia would have the quality of beans that Rasmus demanded.  In fact, he didn’t have proof that this raw material even existed. First, Rasmus met with locals who worked with Bolivian wild cacao harvesters. He then went to the sites to taste the beans and meet the workers.  He was surprised by what he found, an impressive bean with no acidity and bitterness that is usually associated with raw cacao.  He had found his bean.  And it doesn’t get more organic.  These trees have not been cultivated, fertilized, or treated with herbicides. The pods that are produced are about half the size of traditional pods, but hold much better flavor.  These are among the few beans that I have tasted that are not bitter.  They have a solid cacao flavor without the harsh aftertaste. 

Social entrepreneurship

When asked about gaining the trust of the Bolivian farmer, Rasmus shook his head.  “There are no farmers.  There are no farms.  This is the jungle.”  Trust was a big deal.  After working with the beans, he found that the fermenting and roasting process needed a small change.  However, this change flew in the face of what had been done by the locals for generations.  Thus, the relationship with the workers was critical to success. Additionally, the chocolate industry is notorious for the obscene use of child and slave labor. Since the location was deep in the jungle, it would have been easy for a company to come in and exploit those who live there.  Oialla now works with the Danish Foreign Ministry to set and ensure high standards for working conditions. 

Innovation

Working with these beans has not been easy. As I mentioned earlier, the pods are smaller and the beans have a different flavor than traditional beans.  This cacao also has more cocoa butter.  Thus, the traditional ways of making chocolate did not work.  New recipes needed to be perfected before products were ready.  Initial products were launched in 2010 and in less than a year, Oialla won an award from the “Academy of Chocolate.”  Later in 2011, they won the Gold in Great Taste Awards.  In 2012, Rasmus was invited to a small conference with the most talented chocolate makers in the world.  Although impressed with Oialla, a colleague asked why he didn’t get the entire flavor from the bean.  Puzzled, Rasmus went back to the kitchen and spent almost a year refining the manufacturing process.  He says that he now understands what his colleague meant.  The 78% chocolate now has a fuller flavor that captures more of the nuances of the Beniano beans. 

The product

When I visited Oialla, I was offered a beautiful tray of chocolate to taste, first the solid wafers and then the truffles and nuts.  Bottom line - Oialla chocolate is so good that I actually felt guilty eating it.  There were so many wonderful choices.  Now, I wish that I had taken the whole plate, thrown it in my bag and ran out with the treasures.  I knew that you could buy the chocolate wafers, but now I find out that the truffles and other chocolates are not sold.  Cruel cruel world.

At first, Oialla was produced as 72% and 78% dark chocolates (percent of cacao solids).  They just started producing a 46% milk chocolate.  Although chocolate snobs often look down at the lighter versions of chocolate, this milk is for the connoisseur. Rasmus made a subtle, but genius change to the manufacturing process that takes this milk chocolate to another level. I can’t tell you the secret, but it is brilliant.    

  

Recipe for success: Passion

What does every entrepreneur need? Passion. Everywhere you turn, people who are talking about successful entrepreneurs talk about passion.  But, what is passion?  The dictionary uses synonyms such as intense, driving, overwhelming conviction, strong desire, and enthusiasm. 

Passion is what gets you through the unforeseen difficulties and challenges, and there always are some.  In talking with Rasmus, you can’t help but understand his need to make the best product that he can, whether it be gourmet meals or organic chocolate.  He is also witty and down to earth, breaking out the beautiful photo book that his wife produced after their last trip to Bolivia with their children. It is a terrific combination that has served him well.  We may very well find Rasmus’ photo under passion in the dictionary.

Building Product and Infrastructure from Scratch

Original Hawaiian Chocolate Factory

 

Pam and Bob Cooper moved to the Big Island of Hawaii in 1997 after Bob left a career in country club management in North Carolina.  Their philosophy was that bad things happen everywhere in life.  Where is a better place to experience the good and bad than in Hawaii?  Terrific point.  What happened next was a little less obvious.  With little experience in agriculture, the couple bought a small farm with coffee, macadamia nut and cacao trees in Keauhou, Hawaii (near Kona).  Originally, they had planned to cultivate the existing macadamia nuts and build a business; however a family member’s allergy to the product dampened the enthusiasm.  They turned to the cacao trees and in 1999 founded the Original Hawaiian Chocolate Factory.  Their first batch of chocolate was sold in 2000.    

In the last 14 years, the Coopers have grown OHCF to sell over 10,000 pounds of chocolate a year.  That is 5 tons of chocolate all made in small batches on site!  When they opened, few companies made chocolate in Hawaii and most used cacao from around the world.  The infrastructure for the chocolate industry did not exist in Hawaii. Attempts had been made, but there was little success. In fact, no testing facilities existed nearby to rate the beans, so the Coopers sent them to Spain.  They brought in the processing equipment from around the world.

As a specialty item, no retailers carried 100% Hawaiian chocolate.  (The only other company was Hawaiian Vintage Chocolate founded by Jim Walsh in 1986.)  The Coopers set up their distribution and retail sales network from scratch.  Several plantations grow cacao in Hawaii, but they do not process or manufacture the chocolate themselves.  In addition to their six acres of cacao, OHCF purchases cacao from over 30 local farms. The closest competitor is the Dole Plantation that grows 20 acres of cacao in Waialua, Hawaii (Oahu), which is processed and sold by Guittard Chocolate Company.  Currently, no other company has the entire chocolate making process from growing the beans to sales (“tree to bar”) in the country.  This was not by design, but necessity.  The process did not exist, so the Coopers had to make it.  Also, the company did not have a pool of experienced industry mentors on the island.  They worked with farmers and retailers to create a viable value chain in one place.  Thus, a lot of their initial work wasn't just making prototypes of a sellable product, but also included building the market.

The company is a family affair.  Much of the harvesting and processing is still done by the Coopers.  Currently, OHCF sells only single-origin chocolate and cacao nibs.  They do not produce truffles or other chocolate items and do not sell wholesale. Unlike Dandelion Chocolate, OHCF does add cocoa butter, sugar, vanilla powder and/or milk powder to their cacao for taste and stability.  The final product is a smooth and consistent chocolate. 

www.ohcf.us